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Bahia is one of the most famous states in Brazil. If you ask any Brazilian – not from Bahia – which is their favourite destination in the country, chances are they will say: “Bahia!”.

I had been to Salvador, the capital, before but I was intrigued to find out why this eastern state is so popular. I knew that I would have to spend some time travelling around, so I decided to make it my holiday destination last May with my husband. This month is the low season and with it come lesser crowds but the change of some rain. We did get some, but it didn’t spoil our time there, on the contrary, we were awarded with places not heaving with tourists, waterfalls all to ourselves and deserted beaches. 

Here’s my wonderful three weeks, spent self-driving from cities to national parks, and idyllic beach destinations. My husband did most of the driving and I could just enjoy the views! 

FIRST UP, SALVADOR!

I stayed in the Pelourinho, the historical part of the city and this is where I suggest to find accommodation. There are lovely boutique hotels, bars and restaurants and it simply is the most iconic part of the capital. Wonderful colonial architecture and a buzzing day and nightlife.

We stayed at Casa do Amarelindo, and we loved it! It is right in the centre and Gilles, the quirky Frenchman who owns it, is always present and happy to help. I do suggest the higher category rooms overlooking the bay, not the street, as they come with balconies and are a bit quieter. Local bands often play drums through the streets and the whole Pelourinho comes alive. People stop doing what they are doing and start singing and dancing.

As soon as we checked into our hotel, we were welcomed by the Bahian sounds, we followed the band around a couple of streets and then settled into a local restaurant and ordered a moqueca, the typical fish stew dish.

Welcome to Salvador!

 

We stayed three nights in Salvador and the following couple of days we also headed to Rio Vermelho, a great spot to enjoy a couple of drinks in the evenings amongst the locals, and a spot of shopping in Barra. 

I particularly liked Barra. It is a lively neighbourhood by the sea, with a couple of nice beaches and the iconic Farol de Santo Antonio (a lighthouse). It also houses the nautical museum of Bahia and I would recommend a visit. It is one of the few with text in both Portuguese and English, and it offers an interesting history of the city. It is small, so the visit should not take more than an hour and you can go up to the lighthouse and enjoy great views!

A must is also the show at Miguel Santana Theatre right in the heart of Pelourinho. An unmissable hour long cultural experience performed by the Bahia Folkloric Ballet.

CHAPADA DIAMANTINA AND VALE DO CAPAO

Our next destination, was a 7 hour drive to this famous national park. The gateway town is Lencois and it has an amazing display of colonial houses and colourful wooden shutters. During the day it was very quiet and then in the evenings it is buzzing with locals and visitors – where were all these people during the day?! There were plenty of restaurants with tables outside and jovial diners chatting away about the amazing treks attempted during the day. And this is way it was quiet during the day, you come here to hike and trek to your heart’s content and explore the surrounding beauty.

The park is famous for its unspoilt nature, rivers and waterfalls. Climbing at the top of Pai Inacio is a must if you want to take the iconic picture of the park and enjoy stunning views. A trek to Fumaca, the highest waterfall in Brazil is also recommended but it is a demanding trek as it is mostly uphill for a few hours on the way there. 

We also loved lesser known walks to the natural pools of rio Serrano, an easy hike that starts from the town itself where we encounters monkeys and lots of bird life, and I absolutely loved Poco do Diablo. Another river with a beautifully secluded waterfall, we were the only ones there!

We stayed in Hotel de Lencois, one of the very first hotels opening its doors in the town years ago. Just a few minutes walk from the centre of town but secluded enough so that it is peaceful. Spacious rooms with your own patio, great breakfast and gorgeous gardens throughout. We spotted our first marmoset monkeys on the way to breakfast one morning.

We then spent a couple of nights in Vale do Capão. The journey is only around 70 km from Lencois but once you come off BR 242, it is a dirt road all the way to Capão, and it takes a long time. Luckily for us it was worth it!

Beautiful valley with a mystical feel to it. Great landscapes and hikes but we also rested here and enjoyed the grounds of our accommodation. We stayed at Pousada do Capão, 8 mins by car from the town. We enjoyed the best view from our bedroom, breakfast and service were exceptional and the natural pool in the hotel was a very special treat.

We went into the town in the evenings and Capao surprised us. Charmingly colonial and extremely bohemian. A few foreigners have made it their home and apparently it has become a hub for holistic medicine and treatments. You can find small boutiques, bars and restaurants here of all kinds, but everything is still low key and pleasant.

BACK TO THE COAST

After 5 nights in Chapada, it was time to get back to the famous Bahia coast! First on the itinerary, the paradise of Boipeba island! And we loved it! We drove to Valenca – port town on the mainland and left the rental car is a secure parking lot and took a 1 hour 20 minutes boat ride on the river to Velha Boipeba, the main town. 

The whole island was a great surprise – charming, with an ancient history, and just stunning! Lush forests, sandy beaches stretching for miles, friendly locals and amazing sunsets.

We stayed 3 nights in a pousada about 10 minutes walk from the town, Pousada Horizonte Azul. It wasn’t on the beachfront but the chalets were wonderfully cosy, with a big terrace with hammock, surrounded by the lushest gardens I had ever seen! Nothing beats waking up in the morning spotting hummingbirds on tropical flowers.

On Boipeba we made the most of the sea and stunning beaches. This meant swimming, long walks on the beach, and evening spent in local restaurants whilst enjoying the gorgeous sunsets (you can read my blog on Boipeba here).

After three nights on the island, we took the boat back to Valenca and drove south to Itacare’. We treated ourselves to a luxury boutique hotel, Barracuda Hotel & Villas, and wow! If you can, stay in the suites in the separate building and treat yourself to a sea view villa, I cannot recommend it enough. The attention to detail and service were exceptional and the breakfast was one of the best we have ever had. Dinner was great too and they have themed nights, including a Bahian barbecue night. 

You can of course walk the short walk to the town’s main street, Rua Pedro Longo, and here you will find a plethora of restaurants and bars. Nuuh!! Bistro was particularly good and the feijoada at A Brazileira was scrumptious. 

Itacare’ is a buzzing town in high season, with lots of visitors and backpackers, being there in low season meant there were lesser crowds and felt very authentic. It is surrounded by innumerable sandy beaches, some you will need a car to reach and some are within walking distance.

I tried to imagine it in high season, with more tourists and busier beaches, but I think it would still keep its Brazilian feel and soul, the charm of what was once a fishermen village. Some places lose their identity when they become tourist hotspots, but I believe this is not the case with either Boipeba and Itacare.

WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR?

I have left a piece of my heart in Bahia and I now understand why it is so beloved by those who have visited. It is a very captivating place and stunningly beautiful. Self-driving is not for everyone and I do not recommend it if you don’t speak a little Portuguese. English is not widely spoken, but there is no reason to worry! You can do this trip by adding transfers or short flights instead of the rental car. 

My main recommendation: Bahia is a holiday in itself. If it is your first time in Brazil and are already going to other destinations like Rio, Amazon, Pantanal and Iguassu for example, I don’t think it is worth going to visit Salvador alone. The whole state deserves your time and full attention. 

It is a bit off the beaten path, and you will need a good dose of adventure, but it won’t disappoint you. Few places have captivated me so much and like most Brazilians, if I was asked which is my favourite state I would answer: “Bahia!”

I am already planning to go back!

 

Feeling inspired? Contact Val to create your own bespoke Bahia experience.

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