I have been travelling to Brazil for the past 8 years whenever I can so I knew of this island but never had the opportunity to visit.
Well, I am happy to say I have just come back from a 16 days trip to Bahia, I finally made it to Boipeba and I found my true paradise here!
A haven of peace that you can only reach by boat
Leave all your troubles behind, including any form of transportation, because there are no cars on the island. We were travelling with a rental car so we had to leave it at a secured parking allotment in Valenca, a busy town on the mainland from where you catch the boats to several islands including Tinhare and Boipeba.
Tinhare is the bigger island with the famous Morro de Sao Paulo, but I chose Boipeba as it is supposed to be less crowded and authentic. And wasn’t it such? We arrived at around 5.15 pm at dusk after an 1 hour 15 minutes trip by boat through the river and mangroves and as soon as the view of the little harbour of Boipeba opened up, we knew we were going to love it!
A very sleepy seafront – May is low season – scattered with fishermen boats and tranquil bars offering seafood delicacies and local beer. First night dinner sorted! A wonderful fish moqueca with pirao, farofa, arroz and a super cold Devassa beer (or two!). And did I mention the sunset? A daily appointment not to be missed.
Velha Boipeba town fiesta!
On this very first evening we went into the town as there was a big fiesta! We were told that every year a few weeks after Easter, it is tradition for the locals to wash the stairs of the church of the Holy Spirit and then have a big fiesta.
The town was buzzing, with locals in particular, it looked like all the 2000 souls who live here with the addition of a few visitors were out!
Food stalls everywhere on the main (big!) plaza, shops were open and there was simply a contagious atmosphere. Velha Boipeba itself is a charming village with colonial accents and architecture. We actually found out that this island was one of the first places in Brazil to be colonised so it also has a long and interesting history.
Stunning deserted beaches and idyllic natural pools
May is low season in Bahia as it is their rainy season. We took the risk and we did get some rain but, as a reward, the island’s beaches were pretty much deserted!
The first morning we made our way to Boca da Barra beach through a footpath, our jaws dropped in awe of the amazing tropical spectacle that opened to us once we reached the sea. The river meets the ocean here and it is very susceptible to the tide. When it is low, stunning pools of water form with sand dunes in between. We had gorgeous views of Tinahre island on our left and there were only about 4 people on this stunning beach (including us!).
The beauty of Boipeba is that it is developed very little. There are plenty of pousadas but they have all been built consciously without disrupting the scenery and even what is on the waterfront, adds to the charm instead of disrupting the beautiful views.
More beaches and Morere
The following day we walked to Tassimirim beach. It was about a half hour walk along the sea front. Beautiful long stretch of sand with just a couple of bars and restaurants. It was quiet, hardly anyone and the sea was a beautiful hue of blue and calm. This is a great place for a swim and to snorkel!
After a couple of hours here we decided to take a quadriciclo to Morere. We could have walked the one and a half hours along the beach but some black clouds in the horizon made us decide to take the only form of transportation on the island. They are quad bikes and you can find one waiting for customers pretty much everywhere, and you can even pay by card.
Morere is such a sleepy and tiny fisherman village! Beautiful scenery with fishermen’s boats idle on the water, a cute church, a few pousadas scattered around and restaurants. The heavy rain in the afternoon cut our visit short and we took a quadriciclo back to our pousada in Velha Boipeba. Talking to the driver, I found out that it is actually quite expensive for them to get the licence and you can hire their services for the whole day to explore different beaches, but also the interior of the island, filled with pristine forests. Just by driving the 20 minutes back, I could see how lush the island is! Nature that is almost untouched with a plethora of bird species!
Three nights are not enough if…
…you are seeking connection with nature, and want to relax in paradise!
That is the time we had and I honestly wish I could have had much more time in Boipeba! If it is part of a Brazil holiday I understand that time might be a constraint. However, I can’t remember the last time I was touched so deeply by a place, so I recommend you to spend a bit more time if you love the ocean, tropically lush destinations and you want to disconnect.
Staying here a few more nights, lets you combine the beaches with walking excursions, boat rides exploring the mangroves rich in wildlife, snorkelling and scuba diving if you are so inclined. Of course you have to leave enough time to relax too!
There are plenty of accommodation options in charming pousadas, although English is not widely spoken in the more affordable ones. The more upmarket pousadas will send a rep to welcome you and help with the luggage. You might have to make your own way to some of the properties on the island, but if you book a holiday here with Fleewinter, we can add a porter service to help you.
So what are you waiting for? If the above doesn’t convince you…
One evening we were walking on the beach and I saw a gentleman fishing so I asked him what he was hoping to catch. We engaged in a conversation and since we noticed an accent we asked him where he was from. It turned out he was British and had moved here a few years back with his wife. When I asked him what made him take that decision: “This is paradise, why wouldn’t you want to live here?!”.
I couldn’t agree more!
If you want to find out more about Boipeba, my experience and how to include it in a Brazil holiday, please get in touch by calling 0207 112 0019 or drop me an email.
Written by Val Garibotti
Top Travel Tip
“Travel is about discovery and digging under the surface of a country. Take your time, go off the beaten track and plan ahead if you can.”
– Valeria Garibotti – Argentina, Brazil, Chile and Uruguay expert
