The words Taman Negara appear throughout Malaysia and Borneo, usually with a location – it means national park so you’ll find Taman Negara Johor, Taman Negara Bako, etc. Yet there’s one place in the country known without any extra description. Home to one of the oldest rainforests in the world – more than 130 million years – Taman Negara was Malaysia’s first national park and makes for a great introduction to the jungle. On my last trip to Malaysia, I spent two nights there and if I could have, I’d have stayed an extra two to really explore. Alas, there’s only so much time!
Getting to Taman Negara
After a little time in Kuala Lumpur, the drive north through the countryside is a peaceful change of pace. Lush greenery lines the roads and you’ll quickly feel the fast buzz of the city disappear. Although there are some hilly ups-and-downs and a few twists, the road to Labu Sentral jetty is in good condition so it’s a smooth ride. It takes about three hours of driving, more if there’s traffic getting out of KL and a stop along the way to stretch your legs makes the journey a little longer.
At Labu Sentral, your bags will be loaded into a covered longboat and the boatmen will direct you to your seats. Although there’s a bit of cushioning, I suggest folding a sarong or otherwise adding a bit more padding to make the ride more comfortable. If you have them, keep binoculars at hand along with your camera. Along the 1-hour(ish) ride, keep an eye out for buffalo, birds, monkeys, wild pigs, and flying fish. Or just take in the rainforest as it comes into view.
If you don’t want the long boat ride, you can carry on overland from Labu Sentral to Tahan, just across the river from the park entrance. The drive is about 40 minutes and then it’s another 5 to cross the water. I think the boat ride is worth the minor discomfort of sitting still for a little more than an hour but if time is tight or you’d simply prefer the land transfer, it’s easy enough to arrange.
What to do
A visit to Taman Negara is all about exploring the jungle. Many trails can be walked without a guide although walking with one means you’ll learn about some of the jungle plants, wildlife, and local legends. Boat rides are also a great way to explore and it’s worth including at least one during your time here. Another option is to visit the nearby village populated by the Batek tribe to learn about their way of life.
Walks & Treks
Setting out from park headquarters are a number of trails of varying lengths and difficulty. The trails are easy to follow and pass through shaded areas and stretches of full sun. I dare you to return from a walk in Taman Negara without working up a sweat! An absolute must is the Canopy Walkway which is closed on Fridays and crowded on weekends when visitors come up from Kuala Lumpur. There’s more than one way to reach the walkway and it requires a separate ticket which needs to be arranged before you leave HQ. The view from Bukit Teresek is great and it always feels good to summit a hill so if you’re up for the climb, I recommend it.
Rivers & Waterfalls
Sign up for a boat ride to Lata Berkoh, don your swimsuit, hat and trekking sandals, grab a towel or sarong and set out for an adventure. There are stops along the way for photos and to hop out and explore a little although if you can convince your boatman to be quick with the stops, I suggest maximizing your time at Lata Berkoh. It’s a short walk along uneven terrain to a spot where you can swim in the clear fresh water that comes down from the mountain.
Shooting the rapids, visiting Teras waterfall, and a night cruise to look for flying lemurs, slow loris, civet cats, fireflies, and other nocturnal wildlife are also available.
Wildlife Viewing
There’s never a guarantee of seeing wild animals but if you’re hoping to see barking deer, leopard cats, or mouse deer, your best bet is to head for a hide at dawn, dusk, or both. Bumbun Tahun is the closest to park headquarters and the trails leading to and from this hide are often where people spot wildlife. Deer sometimes come to the salt lick in front of the hide so bring binoculars, camera, mozzie spray, and make a relaxing morning or evening of it. There’s also a good chance you’ll see macaques around the park.
A night walk is a good time to see unusual insects, snakes, spiders, and other small critters. For birds, wake early and walk the trails close to park headquarters and in the direction of Bumbun Tahun.
If you’re hoping to spot a tiger, you’ll need to trek deep into the jungle with a guide and camp in one of the remote campsites. The odds of seeing one are low although you might be lucky enough to hear one or see its tracks.
A few packing tips…
It’s hot, humid, and you’ll be out walking or exposed to the sun a lot. Be prepared to return to your room with at least a few damp items in need of rinsing! With that in mind, here are a few things to think about when packing.
For the night walk, it’s good to have fully closed shoes but otherwise, hiking sandals with a good grip will do for most of the trails if you don’t mind your feet getting dirty. You can wear hiking sandals for the night walk but I’d recommend covering exposed feet and ankles with insect repellent. If wearing shoes that require socks, bring extras or quick-drying, odor-resistant ones. Your travel companion will thank you.
Speaking of reasons your travel companion will thank you, consider taking a tiny tub of baking soda / bicarbonate of soda when travelling in the jungle. Its odor-neutralizing properties work wonders with clothes and shoes that might have picked up a subtle aroma (and particularly pungent humans…).
A small daypack is really helpful to carry water, binoculars, sunblock, insect repellent, and other bits as you explore. I also recommend bringing a cooling towel, bandana, or other piece of fabric that you can wet and hang around your neck. If you have space, a cloth or buff to dab away any perspiration finding its way toward your eyes or keeping your palms too slippery to grip a railing can be a handy thing. Remember handkerchiefs? They’re great for this.
If you’re staying long enough for camping in the rainforest, your needs will be different and if you’re booking with Fleewinter, we’ll help you out with a packing list for that.
Where to stay
To get the most out of your visit, Mutiara Taman Negara is the best option. There are some very basic guesthouses across the river that cater for backpackers and budget travellers but only Mutiara is within the park.
Rooms are all detached chalets with outdoor seating, air conditioning and ceiling fan, a hot shower, WiFi, and ample space for luggage, resting, and hanging damp clothes. A few family units are available with more beds and space. The units will each be updated over the coming years to allow more natural light and generally modernize the look and feel but for now, the chalets are fine for what and where they are.
Meals are available on site and when you book with Fleewinter, we’ll include most of those as part of your stay. Dinner is typically a buffet with a mix of Malay and western dishes. Vegetarian options are limited but available and if the buffet is lacking on this front, the team will find a solution if you ask. We won’t pretend this is gourmet dining, just simple fare in a remote location!
How long to stay depends on how adventurous you are…
To enjoy the canopy walkway, jungle trails around the park entrance, a night walk, visit to the hide, and perhaps a boat ride along the river, two nights is long enough. A third night gives you more time for walks, boat rides, waterfalls, and a visit to the nearby village. This also makes it a bit more relaxing with more time to rest between activities. I suggest avoiding Fridays when the canopy walkway is closed and weekends when the park is at its busiest and the wait for the walkway can feel endless in the heat and humidity.
If you want to really get into the jungle and look for wildlife and birds, you’ll need to stay longer and be ready for some serious adventure. With a bit of planning, a guide can accompany you to one of the campsites where you can overnight. Jungle trekking is not for the faint of heart as it’s hot, humid, the ground is uneven, the trees are thick, and there are plenty of insects, leeches, and other reminders that you’re in the rainforest. You can do this by adding two nights. This way you can find your feet on the trails around the park entrance, have a good rest, then set out with your guide before the day gets too hot. After your trek, you’ll have time to relax, enjoy the canopy walkway, visit a waterfall, shoot the rapids, or visit the Orang Asli.
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If you’d like to include a visit to Taman Negara as part of your holiday in Malaysia, please get in touch, I’d love to help you fall in love with a country that has so much to offer! Give me a ring on 020 7112 0019 or drop me an email!
Written by Marbree Sullivan
Top Travel Tip
“At least once in every journey, travel by local transport. Some of the most memorable conversations I’ve had have occurred in the back of jeepneys, trucks, and in the passenger seats of tricycles and tuk-tuks. You’ll gain insight into daily life and see your destination the way locals do.” Marbree – Philippines, Borneo, Malaysia, Laos, Singapore, and Cayman Islands Specialist
