Salta, Cafayate, Cachi, Salinas Grandes, Purmamarca: a tour in the north west of Argentina
As a tour operator, it is important that I experience the destinations I recommend to clients.
After being invited to a travel show in Buenos Aires, I took the opportunity to extend my stay in Argentina to go on a tour in the north west of Argentina.
This is a region with dramatic landscapes, colonial and indigenous heritage, and best of all, it is still little known to mass tourism. Read on for a detailed account of my trip.
Salta ‘La linda’
A tour in the north west of Argentina is incomplete without a stay in Salta. Referred to as ‘La linda’, the city is delightfully colonial, offers great museums, bars, restaurants and boutiques.
When doing a full tour of the north west, you will have to overnight in the city twice, so on my trip I stayed the first night in a finca in the outskirts. Finca Valentina offered the perfect place to relax after a delayed flight from Buenos Aires and recharge before the busy days ahead.
I spent my 3rd night of the tour in the north west of Argentina in the city, staying at the gorgeous Legado Mitico Salta, Beautifully appointed, it is the prime example of what a boutique hotel should be. Great location in the centre with easy access to restaurants and shops. If you spend only one night in Salta you might not have a lot of time to explore, but I enjoyed sitting in the main square watching the world go by and walk to a lovely vegetarian restaurant, Tantra Salta. I am not vegetarian, but with all the meat eating in Argentina, it offered a very welcome and delicious change!
Cachi, Los Cardones National Park, Cafayate
This is the southern part and the Salta province of a tour in the north west of Argentina.
I set off from Salta to drive through route 33 through Los Cardones National Park towards Cachi or Molinos, the former being a bigger place but full of charm, lots of restaurants where I had a lovely lunch. Then in the afternoon I continued the journey through route 40 to Cafayate.
The day was long, so I would always recommend my clients to include an overnight in either Cachi or Molinos to make the most of a slower pace. The distances are made longer by the condition of the roads, which are in parts gravel. And if you have more time, you can stay in lovely Hacienda de Molinos or visit the renowned Bodega Colome near Cachi, in the Calchaqui Valleys, renowned for their beauty and their wine production.
My overnight was in Patios de Cafayate, just outside charming Cafayate, another town reminiscent of the colonial past offering a beautiful square and restaurants. There are plenty of wine bodegas and I enjoyed an impromptu wine tasting at Bodega Nanni, just a few block from the square, a very inexpensive experience with a wonderful selection of wines, including my favourite: Torrentes!
Salinas Grandes and Purmamarca: a tour in the north west of Argentina
The last part of my tour took me from Salta (remember I spent the third night here), to the north and the Jujuy province.
Amazing landscapes and one highlight to come, the Salinas Grandes! I took route 34 out of the city, because this is a better road, however, you can take route 9 which is more scenic, goes to higher altitude, but has lots of twists and turns.
On the way to the salinas you will reach your highest point, over 4,000 m.a.s.l. so bear this in mind, slow down the night before, have a light dinner and not too much alcohol, and keep hydrated!
The Salinas Grandes were a highlight
The salinas were so amazing, an immense expanse of out of this world scenery! There is no official entrance, they are just by the side of the road and you will see other cars or vans parked (if you are self-driving). There are some local guides who can take you for a tour but not many speak Spanish but if you want a picture, just hand over some cash and they will and you can go around yourself.
I spent about 40 minutes here, no more as it was very hot, then headed to Purmamarca for the night. The town was more charming than expected but it is a sleepy, remote place. There are nonetheless plenty of restaurants, bars, a craft market and hotels where you can stay.
But my main advice, stay on the salt flats in Pristine Salinas Grandes Luxury Camp for one night. It is wonderful new glamping experience, it might not be the cheapest option but it is a chance in one lifetime! I went to inspect it and I absolutely loved it. Next time for me.
The end of a tour in the north west of Argentina
Purmamarca was the end of my tour in the north west of Argentina, and I didn’t get to spend too much time in the town, as my alarm clock was at 2 am to catch the 3.45 am bus to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile, a 9-hour journey.
I did have a nap at first as it was dark outside anyway, but once the sun had come up, I just couldn’t miss the beautiful scenery!
The bus was pleasant, but luckily I had plenty of water and some food with me, and the spectacle of the sunrise over the dramatic landscapes will stay with me forever.
Reflections and Recommendations
A tour in the north west of Argentina is the ultimate adventure in some of the country’s most beautiful landscapes. What I liked is that you have a good mix of culture – colonial towns – and scenery. There is a lot of variety too, from arid valleys to the verdant ones of the calchaqui and its outstanding production of wine.
I had a driver/guide with me throughout, but you can self-drive. The roads are not busy at all but bear in mind some are gravel, so you have to be cautious.
Most of the towns you will stay in are under or just over 2,000 m.a.s.l. but you will drive through passes that can reach over 4,000 m.a.s.l. so take this into account.
And take your time! I did it in 5 days/4 nights but if you can add a couple of extra nights, you will have a much better experience.
Written by Val Garibotti
Top Travel Tip
“Travel is about discovery and digging under the surface of a country. Take your time, go off the beaten track and plan ahead if you can.”
– Valeria Garibotti – Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Ecuador & Galapagos, and Uruguay expert
