Why Paraty and Ilha Grande are such a lovely pair
By Val Garibotti on 2nd December, 2025
Brazil’s Green Coast at an easy pace
I’ve just returned from Brazil and wanted to share a part of the trip that stayed with me longest: five unhurried nights between Paraty and Ilha Grande. If you’re planning time in Rio and want a few days on the coast that feel characterful rather than busy, this little stretch is ideal. Easy transfers, quiet beaches, and a wonderfully relaxed pace.
Three Nights in Paraty
It was my second time in Paraty, and it reminded me how easy it is to slow down here. The historic centre is a maze of white buildings, blue doors, cobbled streets and a gentle buzz of cafés, bars and small boutiques. It’s pedestrianised, so I could wander at my own speed, drifting between pottery shops, galleries and courtyard restaurants. Evenings are especially lovely: I enjoyed the buzz of the town, seeing it come alive with bars, restaurants, and shops (open till late!), and watch visitors wandering around shopping for souvenirs or choosing where to dine. My favourites places to eat: Thai Brazil for beautifully fresh and colourful Asian/ Brasilian fusion food , Bartholomeu for more refined dining, and Assu Paraty, honest food with outdoor seating by the river.
Tip: there really isn’t a great beach in Paraty, so I suggest you include a boat tour during your visit. I can book this for you and suggest the best options, but if you prefer to wait and see what you fancy doing when you are there, you can rent a local boat.
Where I Stayed: Pousada do Ouro
I based myself at Pousada do Ouro, right in the historic heart. It’s the kind of place that feels quietly elegant without ever being fussy — polished wooden floors, leafy courtyards, and a pool that catches the afternoon light.
Why I enjoyed it:
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warm, attentive staff
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a generous breakfast (fresh fruit, pastries, and tapiocas made to order)
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peaceful interiors despite being in the centre
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easy access to all Paraty has to offer
It’s a great choice if you like the feel of a small, characterful pousada but still want comfort and a good location.
Tip: If you can stretch your budget, staying in a suite makes your stay even more special. I loved suite 7. Very spacious, perfect for a couple or a family with young children, and gorgeous views of Paraty’s rooftops!
Other Lovely Places to Stay in Paraty
Even though I didn’t stay in these, I visited or know them well and I can happily recommend them:
Pousada do Sandi
Colourful, lively and full of personality. It’s one of Paraty’s most iconic façades and suits travellers who like a bit of buzz and bold design.
Pousada Literária
More refined, beautifully designed, and very calm. Think soft lighting, a well-curated library, and a courtyard perfect for quiet mornings with a coffee.
They both sit within the historic centre, so you can walk everywhere.
What I Did in Paraty
Paraty is the kind of place that reveals itself slowly — through its history, its forests, and its calm turquoise bays. These experiences are a perfect way to understand the soul of the town, whether I was wandering cobbled streets, following ancient pathways, or drifting between islands. Here are a few highlights that brought Paraty to life for me.
Historic Walking Tour
A great introduction to the town’s past. I learned more than I expected — from the gold routes to the tide patterns that still lap into the streets. It made wandering the town afterwards much more meaningful.
Caminho do Ouro (The Gold Trail)
A forest walk full of atmosphere. The old stone-paved path winds through dense Atlantic Forest; with a guide you hear stories of the people who once travelled this route. The shade keeps it comfortable, and the sound of water follows you along parts of the trail.
Tip: Trainers or walking sandals are perfect. The stones can be uneven, but it’s not a strenuous walk. However, it can be slippery in parts, especially after a day of rain and if the terrain is wet. I had to grab hold of my guide a few times!
Schooner Tour of the Bays and Beaches
A wonderfully relaxing day. We stopped four times — each bay slightly different — for swimming, drifting, or just sitting on the boat watching the water change colour. It’s simple, slow, and one of those days that recalibrates you. Lunch was also delicious! I had the best ceviche and octopus salad, two of my favourite dishes.
Tip: not all schooner trips are the same! Some are about quantity, rather than quality. I will always suggest the most suitable for your travelling party.
Two Nights on Ilha Grande
From Paraty, I travelled to Ilha Grande, a place that feels both wild and peaceful. Most of the island is covered in Atlantic Forest, and the coastline is dotted with little beaches you can reach only by boat or on foot. It’s perfect if you want nature but also have some comforts. There are so many pousadas, mainly in Vila da Abraao, the main town, but also on other, more secluded beaches like Abraaozinho, which is where I stayed.
Where I Stayed: O Sitio (Aabraãozinho Beach)
I stayed at O Sitio, set on Aabraãozinho Beach, just around the headland from the main town, Abraão. Being slightly out of town made a huge difference — it was quieter, greener, and felt wonderfully calm.
What I liked:
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waking up to the sound of the sea
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a gentle, tucked-away feel
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easy access to town thanks to O Sitio’s small transfer boat (£3–4 each way)
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relaxed shared spaces perfect for reading or just being still
Staying on Aabraãozinho gives you a peaceful base without sacrificing the convenience of popping into town.
Tip: have dinner here one night, but remember to let them know before 4 pm! The evenings at O Sitio are wonderfully calm, the food is fresh and the staff charming. The ceviche is particularly yummy!
Other Great Options on Ilha Grande
Bonito Paraíso
A friendly beachfront pousada with a soft, easygoing feel. A good choice if you want to be near the water and prefer a relaxed, sociable atmosphere. Bonito Paraiso is in Aabraãozinho and they provide their own boat transfer to main village at a small extra cost. The restaurant is exceptional in a lovely beach setting, ideal for a romantic dinner.
Pousada Naturália
Set slightly up the hill from Abraão – the main village on the island, this pousada is surrounded by greenery. Airy rooms, lovely balconies and well-placed for walks. Good value and very comfortable.
Boat trip to beaches
I joined a boat tour that stopped at several bays before dropping us near the trail to Lopes Mendes, and it was well worth it. The sand at Lopes Mendes is fine and pale, and on a calm day the sea looks almost glassy. You can stroll along the shore, swim, or simply sit under the trees and enjoy the calm.
The other stops along the route offered something different each time — lively swimming spots, quiet coves, and viewpoints for those classic Green Coast views.
Tip: Bring a lightweight towel and plenty of water. There are no facilities on the beach.
Final thoughts
Paraty and Ilha Grande make a wonderfully balanced coastal break: one full of culture and charm, the other rich with nature and slow days on the water. If you’re planning your Brazil holiday and want a mix of seaside time and gentle exploring, this combination is an easy and rewarding choice. You can browse my Brazil holidays ideas, and see how to fit Paraty and Ilha Grande into a Brazilian trip
If you’d like help choosing which pousada suits your style — or working out how long to spend in each place — I’m always happy to share more from my trip and you can email me to start planning.
