Cerrado wildlife & trails: my stay at Pousada Trijunção
By Val Garibotti on 18th November, 2025
I’ve just returned from four unforgettable days in Brazil’s Cerrado, staying at Pousada Trijunção with maned wolf tracking, birdwatching, gentle trails and thoughtful food. Here’s what it was like, and why it works so well for anyone curious about Brazil’s quieter wild places.
Settling into the Cerrado
I’ve just come back from the Cerrado and I’m still carrying the feeling of its wide skies and quiet, open spaces. There’s a gentle stillness here that’s different from the rainforest or the coast — a kind of openness that invites you to slow down, listen, and look closer. This part of Brazil doesn’t get much attention, but the richness of life here is surprising if you take the time to notice it. I spent three nights at Pousada Trijunção, which included all meals and activities. From the moment I arrived, I felt the lodge’s relaxed rhythm — everything is planned and well-organised, yet there’s plenty of space to just be.
Why the Cerrado Matters
The Cerrado is often called Brazil’s “hidden savannah,” but it’s far more than that — it’s one of the most biodiverse savannahs on the planet. Sadly, around 60% of it has already been lost to agriculture, mostly for soy plantations and cattle ranches, which makes understanding and visiting it all the more important. Being here is more than ticking off wildlife sightings; it’s a chance to witness a fragile, living ecosystem and see how plants, birds, and mammals coexist in a landscape under pressure. Every buriti palm, patch of grassland, and small stream feels significant. Knowing this made my encounters with wildlife, quiet walks along the trails, and even simple sunsets feel more meaningful. It’s a reminder of the care needed to protect places like Trijunção.
Getting to Pousada Trijunção
I was lucky enough to arrive in style — a 50-minute private plane hop from Chapada dos Veadeiros, skimming over a patchwork of forest, open savannah, rivers and (unfortunately) vast farmland. From the air, the Cerrado looks endless, dotted with clusters of trees and winding waterways. Once I landed, a driver met me and we took the short transfer to the lodge. Pousada Trijunção sits at the point where three states meet, so it feels tucked away, yet it’s easy to reach. Walking into the lodge, I immediately noticed the calm, friendly atmosphere. There’s no rush here, and the team is ready to make you feel at home, which sets the tone for the rest of the stay.
Maned wolf tracking with Onçafari
The highlight of my trip was hands-down Onçafari’s maned wolf tracking. I joined two outings — one at dusk and one at sunrise. The evening outing was magical in its own quiet way. The sun was low, painting the grass golden, and everything slowed down. That’s when we spotted Buriti, a maned wolf researchers say is extremely hard to see. He moved elegantly through the grass, long legs striding with calm confidence, completely aware of us but unbothered.
The next morning, I met Savana, Buriti’s daughter. She appeared from the brush with her distinctive, fox-like gait, moving across the landscape with a quiet curiosity. Spending time with these wolves was a privilege, but it was also a reminder of the importance of conservation. Seeing them in their natural habitat — alert, relaxed, and safe — reinforced why Onçafari’s work is so valuable.
Days full of gentle adventure
Outside the wildlife encounters, the lodge offers two included activities per day, so every day is full without feeling hurried. Each experience is designed to help you connect with the Cerrado at your own pace.
I visited the Grande Sertão Veredas National Park, where golden grasslands stretch for miles, dotted with occasional groves of buriti palms and small streams. The park is alive with bird calls and the gentle rustle of wildlife, and walking through it feels both calming and invigorating. Another afternoon, I watched the sun dip behind the Trijunção landmark, a moment of simple beauty shared only with a handful of guests and the wide-open horizon.
Early mornings offer birdwatching at 6am, when the Cerrado gradually wakes up. There’s something extraordinary about the first light, the soft colours spreading across the grasslands, and the calls of birds echoing in the quiet air. One morning, I took a fat-bike ride to Macaw Lagoon, pedalling along sandy tracks and hearing the macaws long before seeing them swoop overhead. There’s also the Sucuarana Trail, winding through dry forest, buriti palms, and small streams — it gives a real sense of how the Cerrado ecosystem fits together. Every trail, lagoon, and bird call adds a little more understanding of this unique landscape.
Meals and Lodge Life
Meals at the lodge are à la carte, fresh, and full of local touches. After a morning on the trails, sitting down to a plate of well-prepared food felt restorative. Whether it was a hearty breakfast before heading out or a lighter lunch after tracking, each meal felt thoughtfully planned to suit the day’s activities.
The lodge team are genuinely warm and excited to share their home. They check in without fuss, offer helpful tips, and ensure your days are full but never overwhelming. I left feeling well cared for, and with a deep appreciation for the careful balance of comfort, nature, and wildlife experiences that Trijunção provides.
Planning Your Visit
The Cerrado pairs beautifully with Chapada dos Veadeiros or a stop in Brasília, but timing, transfers, and activity planning make a difference. Flights, private transfers, and guided activities are all things we can help arrange, so you can simply relax and enjoy your time.
If you’re curious about including the Cerrado in your Brazil holiday, I’m happy to help you plan it. You can explore more on our Brazil holidays or browse wildlife-focused options on our Amazon & Wildlife pages.
