Three nights in Buenos Aires: what to see, do & feel
By Val Garibotti on 25th September, 2025
Buenos Aires is a city of energy, colour and contrasts — full of music, flavour, and quiet corners where you can catch your breath. I recently spent three nights there and came away enchanted. Here’s what I’d do if you’ve got the same amount of time in Argentina’s capital.
Night 1: Arrive & Dive In
Evening in Palermo
Settle into your hotel, then stretch your legs in Palermo Soho or Hollywood. Murals, cafés, and boutiques make this the perfect first wander. I love grabbing a cortado and people-watching here as the city starts to glow.
Palermo is my favourite place for elegant but welcoming boutique hotels, and my best recommendation is to stay here. Some of the city’s best restaurants are here, there are plenty of bars and cafes offering a great spot to either watch the world go by or relax after a busy day. It is where a lot of Portenos go out, so follow the locals’ example and join in!
Dinner in a parrilla
Your first taste of Buenos Aires should be an asado. Find a neighbourhood parrilla and tuck into tender steak or ribs with fresh chimichurri. A glass of Malbec brings it all together.
Nightcap on a rooftop
Finish with a rooftop drink or patio bar, looking out over the twinkling city lights. Most rooftop bars in the city are in hotels. For a more local feel, stay in Palermo and have a glass (or two) au dehors in lively Plaza Serrano
Day 2: Culture, Tango & Flavours
Morning in La Boca & San Telmo
Start early in La Boca before the crowds. Painted houses, street performers, and artisan stalls create a colourful buzz. Then drift to San Telmo, where antique markets and tango spill into cobbled streets.
Lunch pause
Empanadas or provoleta (grilled cheese) are ideal — with mate tea if you’re feeling adventurous.
Afternoon elegance in Recoleta
Leafy boulevards, art galleries, and the famous cemetery give Recoleta a calm, European feel. Don’t miss a scoop of dulce de leche gelato.
Evening of tango & steak
A tango dinner-show is a must. Choose one that feels intimate, where the dancers are passionate rather than polished for tourists. Pair the music with another Argentinian steak — thick, smoky, unforgettable.
Day 3: Green Spaces & Hidden Corners
Morning gardens
Find some calm at the Botanical Garden or JardÃn Japonés. Statues, koi ponds, and shaded paths make this a perfect slow start to the day.
Midday markets & shopping
Back in Palermo, browse design shops for leather goods or ceramics. Lunch from a food stall — simple, local, full of flavour.
Afternoon in Puerto Madero
Walk along the water at Puerto Madero as the sun drops. Dinner by the river feels relaxed and celebratory.
Last night
Round off your trip with live music in a small venue — folk or jazz depending on your taste. It’s the sound of Buenos Aires you’ll carry home.
Practical Tips
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Getting around: Taxis and apps work well; Subte (the city’s underground) is cheap but crowded at rush hour. I find Uber works fantastically well, it is inexpensive and reliable, so it is usually my first choice for going around the city. Uber drivers also tend to be younger and you might have a better chance to find someone who speaks a bit of English.
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Safety: Keep valuables tucked away, stick to busy areas at night, and ask locals for advice. You will always find someone who will be able to speak English and is keen to help out.
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Money: Cards are widely accepted; cash is handy for markets. Tipping 10–15% is standard for restaurants and bars, however, service charge might have been already included in your bill.
- When to go: Spring (Sep–Nov) and autumn (Mar–May) are cooler and less crowded.
- My favourite hotels:Â I am a big fan of Palermo, both Soho and Hollywood. Here is where you will find most boutique hotels. Smaller properties with plenty of charm and chicness. If you want more grand, luxury hotels you can’t go wrong with Recoleta. It is one of the most upmarket and central neighbourhoods. Here are my most loved properties.Â
Why Buenos Aires Stays With You
For me, it’s not just tango or steaks but the moments in between: quiet mornings with coffee, music from a street corner, conversations with strangers. Buenos Aires is lively, layered, and endlessly engaging.
If you’d like help planning your time here — whether as a standalone visit or as part of an Argentina holiday — I’d love to shape it around your style.
