Laos is a nature lover’s dream. It’s full of places to walk, bicycle, kayak, and rock climb. There are waterfalls to marvel at or swim below and rivers ideal for watching the days unfold. Southern Laos is no different – ok, maybe there’s no rock climbing but you’ve still got plenty of ways to be active among beautiful landscapes. It’s also easy – and I mean easy – to slow down, relax, and unwind. I recently spent more time than I’m going to admit exploring this region and, yes, doing a bit of absolutely nothing. So what to do in Southern Laos? Here’s the answer.
The Bolaven Plateau
Sitting at a higher elevation than most of Laos, the Bolaven Plateau is cooler than the rest of the country and is home to the country’s coffee farms. There are also beautiful waterfalls and villages where traditional ways of life still hold sway. For backpackers, there’s a motorcycle loop through this region, staying at simple guesthouses along the way. For those of us beyond that stage of life (or who simply prefer to leave the driving to others), there are Soviet-era jeep-style 4-wheel-drives that are great for reaching those perfect off-road spots.
Swim below the falls, picnic on an island that doesn’t exist in rainy season, and let time drift by. Head to a coffee farm with a former tour guide turned coffee grower and entrepreneur. Watch as beans are roasted in a homemade roasting system, walk the farm for views across the plateau, and pick up some roasted coffee beans to take home. Oh, and try the coffee, if you’re into that sort of thing.
Wat Phu
Older than Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, visiting this temple complex can be a highlight of any trip to Laos. The best time to visit is sunrise when no one else is there and you can watch the sun come up over the Mekong. There’s something magical about the mist hugging the mountains, the sacred spring bubbling, and the temple ruins glistening. This UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site is small, making it less daunting than its Cambodian cousin. You’ll only need a few hours to walk up the hill, through the ruins, and to see the museum.
While the site has been a religious one since at least the 5th century, most of the still-standing structures are from the 11th to 13th centuries. As there are few signs and only a simple map provided on entry, seeing Wat Phu with a local guide is the best way to experience it. Without one, you’ll have to do your own research to find out why the steps were designed as they are and the story behind the “crocodile” rock.
The 4,000 Islands
Unless you’re into the late-night party scene of backpackers or you’re heading overland into Cambodia and need a place to stay for one night, I don’t recommend staying in this region. The hotels leave something to be desired and for most people, a day trip is enough. The time in a boat as you head downstream is delightful, the smaller islands are pleasant to explore on foot, bicycle, or by tuk-tuk, and the waterfalls are stunning.
Speaking of waterfalls, a series of suspension bridges opened in 2024 at Liphi falls that takes you across the flow to a viewing deck. It’s an adventurous walk along bouncy bits of metal that’s well worth it for the views and the pure joy of being above thundering water in a completely unique way. Admittedly, being there in dry season will be a different experience to the middle of rainy season when I was just there. Regardless, these falls flow year-round so as long as you’re reasonably sure-footed, have a decent sense of balance, and a genuine sense of adventure, it’s worth including in your list of what to do in southern Laos.
Champasak
This historic town is worth a walk or cycle through. Even in the busier months, it’s a quiet, laid-back place with a handful of restaurants, royal residences, and interesting buildings. Keep an eye out for cows and chickens roaming free during the day, there are few fences in this part of the country.
Many hotels will loan you a bicycle and I think it’s worth taking these out for a spin. Traffic is minimal and the terrain is flat so cycle through town and a little beyond. You’ll pass temples, rice fields, shops, and young children waving “hello” as you wheel by. In the rainy season, unpaved roads will be muddy so if you go off the main roads, be prepared to hop off and walk from time to time. In the dry season, the heat can be intense. Bring plenty of water and use the heat as an excuse to stop into local shops or “bars” for a cooling drink and a bit of shade. Or head out late in the day to catch the sunset before cycling back to your hotel in the twilight.
What about Pakse?
Pakse is the gateway to southern Laos with flights to Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Siem Reap, and Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City). While you could stay there, there’s no great reason to do so. There’s a morning market, a large Buddha atop a hill great for sunset views, a handful of decent restaurants and cafés, and plenty of ATMs if you’re in need of cash. The boutique hotels in Champasak are much nicer than those in Pakse and the road connecting the small town to the city makes for a smooth 30-minute drive.
If you insist on staying and book your holiday through Fleewinter, you’ll find a few of our suggestions in Vamoos and I’ll almost certainly recommend Residence Sisouk with its colonial charm and central location.
Where to Stay
There was a time when it made sense to stay in the 4000 Islands but now, it’s best to stay in Champasak and use that as your base to explore. The food is better, the hotels more comfortable, and you don’t risk the sounds of backpackers partying into the night. Our favourites are The River Resort and La Folie, each with its own charm.
Sitting on the small island of Don Daeng, most of La Folie’s cottages face west so you can take in the sunset from your balcony or poolside. This places oozes character and reaching it by boat makes for a grand entrance. The island can be explored on foot or by bicycle although it’s easy to let time drift by watching the river, drink in hand. The food is excellent with a variety of Lao and international options and although breakfast is fairly simple, the dinners make up for it. If you prefer to dine outside of your hotel, this isn’t a great choice due to its island setting.
The River Resort can be reached both by land and boat which means you can cut driving time on tours differently based on where you’re going. You’re also able to borrow bicycles and ride into the town of Champasak or take a tuk-tuk if you want to explore or eat out. The rooms are modern with plenty of light and comfortable furnishings. Each has two balconies, one for sunrise and the other sunset, plus a private outdoor shower off an inside one. In keeping with the theme of two, there are two swimming pools, both near the Mekong. The breakfast spread is excellent and the cocktail menu extensive. Wine drinkers may prefer La Folie which has more choice and better value on this front.
The service at both is excellent and I really think you can’t go wrong with either one.
How Long to Stay
As part of a two or three week holiday in South East Asia, four nights is probably enough. This gives you one day for the 4000 Islands or Bolaven Plateau, one day for Wat Phu and Champasak, and one day to relax and perhaps explore around your resort. Of course, if you want to include both the 4000 Islands and Bolaven Plateau, then you’ll need a fifth night or give up your free day.
Day trips to the 4000 Islands and Bolaven Plateau from Champasak (or Pakse) are long. And while you’ll spend some of the day sitting in a van, and some in a boat or jeep, these days can be tiring. You’ll do a lot and even when you’re sitting, your brain is working, taking it all in. Wat Phu is best at sunrise which means a very early start – annoying but well worth it. All of this adds up to justifying at least a day to rest. And this is a beautiful place to do it.
Flights to Pakse are available daily from Vientiane and twice a week to Luang Prabang, Siem Reap, and Saigon so if you’re coming from or going to one of those places, then you may need a fifth night in the south depending on your schedule. I can think of worse places to be stuck for an extra night.
If you have more time or if your holiday is dedicated entirely to Laos – which I highly recommend – then I wouldn’t hesitate to stay in the south for five nights or longer.
One Last Word
Many people want to end their holiday on a beach and while I understand that, I often wonder, why limit yourself to a beach? Sure, being by the ocean is soothing and it feels like being on holiday to have sandy feet and salty hair. Yet anyone who’s ever swung in a hammock beside a lake or sat on a riverbank watching it flow can tell you, there’s peace to be found beside the water – no sand in your suitcase needed. There are memories to be made while the kids play in hotel swimming pools and the adults sip cocktails on islands in the middle of a river. There are lazy days that pass just as deliciously without the sea, sending everyone home rested and refreshed, with memories entirely different to the ones that can happen on any beach, anywhere.
So go on, buck the trend and try a holiday that ends with easy days in the south of Laos. If nothing else, it will give you an excuse for that extra beach holiday you’ve been wanting.
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If you’d like a tailor made holiday in Laos, please get in touch. I’d love to help you experience this peaceful nation.
Give me a ring on 020 7112 0019 or drop me an email.
Written by Marbree Sullivan
Top Travel Tip
“At least once in every journey, travel by local transport. Some of the most memorable conversations I’ve had have occurred in the back of jeepneys, trucks, and in the passenger seats of tricycles and tuk-tuks. You’ll gain insight into daily life and see your destination the way locals do.” Marbree – Philippines, Borneo, Malaysia, Laos, Singapore, and Cayman Islands Specialist
