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If you’re heading to Bhutan or India and want to spend a little time in Nepal, then a Kathmandu stopover may be on your radar. As we at Fleewinter don’t have a full Nepal holiday program (yet!), I’ve put together this guide to get you started. It isn’t meant to wholly replace your preferred guidebook or other form of research. It’s here to give you personal recommendations and advice on where to stay, for how long, what to do, and a few other thoughts. It’s also here to inspire you to pick up the phone or send me an email so I can help you enjoy Kathmandu.

The Fleewinter team are a bit obsessed with the destinations we send people to and I’m no exception. Kathmandu is unlike anywhere else and although it’s dusty, loud, and a tad overwhelming, it’s surrounded by gorgeous hills and heritage towns. It’s a vibrant feast for the senses and a gateway to the most incredible mountain range on earth. A stopover before Bhutan means you’ll not only begin acclimating to the altitude, you’ll have the experience of neighboring nations with all their contrasts and similarities.

Where to Stay

Boutique hotels are at the heart of Fleewinter’s recommendations and fortunately, there are plenty to choose from in the Kathmandu Valley. Having traipsed and ridden through the region, these are my top picks.

Kathmandu

If you’re only staying one night and want a comfortable, beautiful place to stay where you’ll get a glimpse of Nepal’s beauty, Varnabas Museum Hotel is the place to be. Of course, it’s delightful if you’re staying longer than one night although then we might recommend you get out of Kathmandu entirely!

Often referred to as the finest hotel in Nepal, Dwarika’s Hotel is a luxurious choice with impeccable service amongst loads of history and character. The property is expanding and will soon have enough rooms that calling it boutique won’t quite fit but sometimes, it’s worth looking beyond the number of rooms.

For those who wish to be near the Bouddhanath Stupa or to immerse themselves in the Buddhist world of Kathmandu, have a look at Shambaling Boutique Hotel. With homage paid to the roots of Tibetan Buddhism, a peaceful garden, special offerings such as dinner with a monk, and easy walking access to the stupa along with countless restaurants, this is a surprisingly delightful choice.

Thamel

In the busy, buzzy Thamel area, my recommendation is Nepali Ghar. This boutique hotel oozes character, offers excellent service, and is a great value. The courtyard is delightful after a long day in the dusty streets and the rooms offer a haven of comfort. As someone who has taken countless flights at odd hours, I’m always on the lookout for properties where you can easily freshen up before a night flight or on arrival before check-in and a place to collect myself when a room isn’t available. Nepali Ghar’s facilities are top notch.

 

Bhaktapur

Possibly my favourite hotel in all of Nepal, The Nanee is a gem within the beautiful historic heart of Bhaktapur. From the moment you arrive, you’re accepted as a member of the community and you’ll be treated to insider secrets, hidden passages, and the sort of knowledge that only a resident can provide. The serenity of the hotel with its contemporary rooms and Newari highlights is precisely the retreat needed when days are spent immersed in the almost dizzying array of sights, sounds, smells, and tastes of the region. Bhaktapur is quieter, cleaner, and generally less frenetic than Kathmandu and if you’re staying for at least two nights, I highly recommend staying in this heritage area and allowing us to arrange a day tour into the bigger city.

If budget is a concern, Hotel Heritage outside the historic district offers buckets of local character within walking distance of the old town. The rooms are comfortable, the small restaurant has an extensive menu, and you’ll find everything needed for a comfortable stay.

Nagarkot

If you’ll be trekking in Bhutan, we strongly recommend that you spend time in Nepal first to begin adjusting to the altitude. Even better, go for day hikes such as hiking from Bhaktapur to Nagarkot or Nagarkot to Dhulikhel. Overnight in Nagarkot at Hotel Mystic Mountain.

Dhulikhel

If you’d like some time in true tranquility, The Dwarika’s Resort in Dhulikhel is the place to stay. If you wish to see the sites of Kathmandu, then I suggest staying closer to the city for two nights and then ending your holiday here. After time in Bhutan or trekking in the mountains, there’s no better way to be sure of heading home with a peaceful mind and feeling in tune with the world around you than spending time here. Trust me when I say that photos do not do justice to the elegance, energy, beauty, and restorative value of this resort. Once you arrive, you won’t want to leave!

What to See & Do

Kathmandu

Durbar Square, temples, and the streets of Thamel is the TL;DR of what to do in Kathmandu. With a guide and driver, you can pack in the highlights in one day although of course it’s more relaxing to spread it out over two. If time is limited, Durbar Square plus one or two temples will give you a taste of the city.

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Durbar Square encompasses 16th century temples, royal palaces, structures dating back to the 3rd century, the home of Kumari – a young girl worshipped as the living embodiment of a Hindu goddess, and some of the most intricately carved facades you’ll find anywhere in the world. Wear good walking shoes as this area is explored on foot.

Resting on a massive mandala, Boudhanath Stupa is one of Nepal’s three most important Buddhist pilgrimage sites. Whether you visit one of the 50 monasteries surrounding it, walk clockwise around the stupa, or climb to one of the many restaurants with excellent views from above, this is worth a visit. Evening is one of the best times as the area is lit with butter lamps, countless monks and devotees making a kora (ritual circumnavigation), spinning prayer wheels, chanting mantras, and strolling in meditative contemplation.

Another Buddhist pilgrimage site, Swayambhunath, also known as the Monkey Temple, sits atop a hill and its glittering golden spire is visible from all sides of the valley. At more than 2,500 years-old, this temple suffered during the 2016 earthquake and renovation will continue for some time. Whether it’s the temples, monkeys, or views that most interest you, it’s worth the stairs to see this part of Kathmandu.

With a completely different energy, the Hindu Pashupatinath Temple can be an overwhelming experience. The site is home to a main pagoda, 518 mini-temples, ashrams, public cremation sites, and a seemingly never-ending crowd of devotees. Non-Hindus are not permitted within the complex but you can get a sense of it from the terraces across the Bagmati River.

For a completely different experience in Kathmandu, try wandering the streets of Thamel or riding in a rickshaw from Durbar Square to Thamel and ending in the Garden of Dreams. Lined with shops and eateries, and filled with markets, guesthouses, bars, and backpacker haunts, Thamel is a world unto itself. It’s loud, busy, and full of dust which makes the Garden of Dreams an oasis worth seeking out.

Bhaktapur & Patan

The Kathmandu valley has three ancient cities: Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. The first is the biggest, loudest, and generally most chaotic. Patan is only a few kilometers south and almost feels like a different world. Bhaktapur is a bit further away and my favourite of the three.

Bhaktapur‘s walkable heart is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and with car and motorbike access restricted to certain areas, there’s significantly less dust and smog than elsewhere. At least half a day can be spent ambling from one square to the next, stopping to marvel at temples, peeking into museums, climbing up to cafés and restaurants for aerial views and a break from the heat, trying your hand at pottery, chatting with shopkeepers and bara makers, and finding your favourite Juju Dhau.

Closer to the heart of Kathmandu, Patan Durbar Square is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This palace area is home to 14th to 18th century royal homes, temples, pagodas, stupas, monuments, courtyards, and plenty of distinctive architecture. The museum and its garden offer a place to escape the city noise and rest your eyes on something green between all the staring at intricate woodwork. If local markets appeal, then Mangal Bazaar and on Sundays, Yellow House Farmers Market are worth seeking out.

Hiking

Without getting into the many options for multi-day hikes and treks, the Kathmandu Valley itself is home to countless trails for hikes of all lengths. Nagarkot’s panoramic trail is a gentle walk through rolling hills with, as you’d expect, stunning views. Namobuddha can be reached on foot from any number of starting points and if you’re so inclined, you can walk between various villages and sites in a day. If you’re heading to Bhutan after your time in Kathmandu, I highly recommend setting aside at least two days for hiking in the Kathmandu Valley. Your body will begin acclimating to the altitude, you’ll work out any kinks in your kit (and have access to the shops of Thamel to buy replacements or supplements), and when you reach Bhutan, you’ll be amazed at how different the trails and views of these neighboring nations can be.

Everest Flight

If you aren’t the sort to build a holiday around days of trekking to Everest Base Camp but you want to see the mountain up close, then a morning Everest flight is your best bet. On clear mornings, 45-minute flights and 4-hour helicopter rides begin early. Everyone gets a window seat and the aircraft will pass the mountain twice so all aboard get a chance to marvel at its awesomeness. If you’re flying to Bhutan and choose the correct side of the plane, there’s a good chance you’ll see the peak above the clouds without paying extra for an Everest flight. Of course, it will be in the distance instead of just outside your window…

How Long to Stay

With two nights, you can get a taste of Kathmandu, packing in visits to Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, Patan or Bhaktapur, a few of the religions sites such as Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, and Swayambhunath. If you add a third night, you’ll have time for a day hike and seeing more of the valley.

If you can stay for a week, then I suggest splitting the time between locations. This could be Bhaktapur for Kathmandu and Bhaktapur sightseeing following by Dhulikhel for meditation and blissful relaxation, Nagarkot for hiking, or incorporating full day hikes that allow you to walk from one village to another, letting a driver cart your luggage.

There are plenty of places to explore in Nepal but that’s beyond the scope of a Kathmandu stopover guide so if you’re interested, give me a buzz here at Fleewinter and I’ll be happy to help.

When to go and other bits…

When to visit depends on what interests you but unless you like rain, avoid the summer monsoon season of June through August. Heavy clouds mean you won’t get mountain views, rain creates muddy trails and washed out roads that can take days to clear, and some businesses close for a month or more. It will also be hot and humid with poor air quality.

Spring and autumn are great for trekking with more moderate weather and the autumn months are the busiest. Not only are the treks and views at their peak, there are a number of festivals that can either be incredible to witness or a maddening sensory overload. Many are logistical nightmares and sensibly choosing where to stay is critical to enjoying your time.

Winter is an excellent time for the Kathmandu valley as the temperatures aren’t extreme, (15C on average in January), the skies are clear, and if you have time to go south in search of wildlife, your odds of spotting it are decent.

For a touch of guidance on visas, flights, money matters, language, and other useful things to know, I’ve put together a few essentials on this page here.

Anything else you’d like to know?

Writing this has made me yearn to return and continue exploring as the Kathmandu Valley has enough to keep anyone busy for weeks. The hikes, the food, the warm Nepalese hospitality, the unbelievably intricate wood carvings and artistry, the history, mysticism, meditation, sound healing, yoga, and the sheer beauty of the land are all waiting for you.

If there’s more you’d like to know about a Kathmandu stopover or you’d like help including one as part of your holiday, please reach out. Like everyone at Fleewinter, I love talking about the places I hold close to my heart and helping others experience them is even more rewarding.

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