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Bhutan is known for its natural beauty and its many hiking trails. Countless monasteries and cultural sights rest on hillsides and mountaintops. Which means day hikes are part of the experience for nearly all visitors. For those seeking more of a challenge but not to spend their entire holiday on the trail, the Bumdra Trek is ideal. This two-day, one-night hike starts above Paro climbing to nearly 3,900 meters where a permanent camp sits. On the second day, you descend to Tiger’s Nest, getting views from above and with the possibility to visit before the crowds arrive.

For me, the Bumdra Trek was one of the highlights of my time in Bhutan. The scenery is gorgeous, the trail is easy to navigate, the camp is comfortable, and the views are unbelievable. Falling asleep to the sound of bells tinkling as horses moved about camp, waking to clouds shifting over the Himalayas, looking out across the grass at the chorten and beyond, it’s a memory that can only be made in Bhutan.

To help you prepare, here’s what you need to know about the Bumdra Trek. And if you’d like to see some video of the hike, click here.

The Hike

Starting at around 2,800 meters with a view of the Paro runway below, the hike climbs to 3,900 meters then descends to 2,600 on day two. Neither day is a full day of hiking so if you start from your Paro hotel in the morning, you’ll have ample time for photo stops, resting, exploring camp, and even tacking on an extra bit of elevation gain.

Some sections are steep but there’s no rock scrambling, ropes, or technical climbing. There are railings and stairs on the descent as you approach Taktsang and on the steep inclines you’ll encounter around the monastery. If you’re a regular hiker and acclimated to the altitude, this isn’t a particularly taxing trek although for novice hikers, it can be a grueling experience. The more adjusted to the altitude you are, the easier it will be so especially if you’re not an avid trekker, I cannot stress enough the importance of warm-up hikes around Kathmandu and throughout Bhutan before tackling this.

Day 1

Your driver will take you into the hills above Paro to begin the trek and the views from the moment you strap on your pack and don your hat are nothing short of spectacular. If you’re lucky, you might catch sight of a plane landing at the airport as you’re tightening laces and checking your water.

For the first stretch, you’ll pass between open areas and thick forest before reaching a small monastery with one resident monk where you’ll stop for lunch. By this point, you’ll be at about 3,650 meters, more than 75% of the way up. One of the camp’s team will meet you with something to drink as you round the bend and once all in your party are ready, will serve lunch atop a hill with 360 degree views or if the wind is too strong, in a sheltered spot with views of distant mountains.

After lunch and tea, it’s a steep 30-45-minute hike before the trail flattens out to a gentle slope. This was my favorite part of the trail, winding through ancient forests, passing through open pasture without a single person or building in sight other than the guide and my fellow hikers. A profound sense of peace washed over me and while that happens often when hiking, this was one of those special moments when I felt connected to the world around me in the depth of my soul, reminded that I am a guest on this land, destined to be here for only a moment. Humbling and uplifting at once.

If you reach camp in time and are so inclined, you can hike one final stretch to a summit. We’d started our day in Thimphu so got a late start and it was too close to sunset for me to attempt this with our guide. At daybreak, I went part way up, enough to know that the trail is steep but short. Waking at 3900 meters and moving higher, I could feel the altitude and with clouds blocking any chance of a picturesque sunrise, I returned to camp, ready for the next stage.

Day 2

After a hearty breakfast, day two of the Bumdra Trek starts by following signs to Taktsang. Elevation drops quickly and the foliage changes as you go with plenty of pines and rhododendrons. The trail passes by a small meditation centre where you’ll need to move quietly and to a monastery where, on a clear day, you might catch a glimpse of Tiger’s Nest. We stopped to chat with the resident monk and received blessings before carrying on.

As you approach the iconic monastery, more small temples and monasteries come into view and seeing so many built into the cliffs and along the ledges makes for one moment of awe after another. Yet there’s nothing quite like The Tiger’s Nest itself. Bhutan’s most famous site, each of us lit up like a kid at Christmas when we got our first clear view. Whether you approach as we did from above or from the valley below, a series of stairs both down and up marks the final stretch. There are plenty of view points on the main trail but coming from above, you get a few extra.

After checking our bags, phones, and cameras, ensuring we were respectfully dressed, and a final set of stairs, we entered the monastery with our guide. Unbeknownst to us, we arrived within a month of a sacred day for Taktsang when the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated is open for one day. Special prayers and ceremonies were underway and the air was heavy with incense and heady with chanting. While some of the temples were crowded with tourists who had made the hike from the valley, others were quiet sites of prayer and meditation. More than one of us would happily have stayed longer to breathe it in, meditate, and witness the spiritual energy. Alas, the final descent awaited.

There are multiple paths between the Tiger’s Nest and the Paro trailhead in varying lengths and steepness. Our guide led us on the middle path and we passed horses, families, and hikers of varying ages and fitness levels. At the bottom, there’s a large parking area with clean washrooms. Our guide had alerted our driver as we approached so we stumbled in for the ride to town. Less than 30 hours after we started, we had finished the Bumdra Trek.

Bumdra Camp

Able to sleep more than 20 hikers and staffed by a small team, Bumdra Camp is sheer luxury when compared to your usual hut or campsite of an overnight hike. The tents have double or twin beds and are spacious enough to walk around in. Toilet and shower tents are stocked with water and there’s a cistern for handwashing. The staff will heat water for a shower and what feels like a never-ending supply of hot ginger tea is available.

We were greeted with tea and snacks both salty and sweet when we reached camp and after we’d settled in, a filling and delicious dinner. Vegetarians and meat-eaters were well-catered for, something I found to be true throughout Bhutan. Lamps light the path between the mess tent, sleeping tents, and ablution tents although one near our tents was a bit temperamental.

Aside from the chiming bells of grazing horses and the voices of fellow hikers, you’ll be met with complete quiet. The only signs of civilization are small monasteries, chortens, and stone structures for burning offerings. This is the sort of peace only found in the heart of a land where respect for all beings runs deep and nature remains untamed.

What to Pack

Leave the big bags in Paro and take only an overnight knapsack with plenty of layers. I’m assuming that you know the basics of what to bring on an overnight hike so this is meant to supplement and shape your usual packing list.

Clothing & Shoes

Have both shorts and long hiking trousers plus an extra layer of long johns or warm trousers for the evening. Bring both a hat to keep the sun off and a beanie for keeping warm. Rain gear including a pack cover are sensible and during the wet months of June through September, crucial. If doing the hike in winter, you’ll need more layers.

On Day 2, you’ll visit monasteries so have the appropriate clothing available. You can change clothes when you reach Tiger’s Nest if you’re prepared to do so in a wet public restroom.

A pair of warm socks will likely suffice for your feet at Bumdra camp as Crocs-style or similar shoes are available for all guests to use within the camp. You may want flip-flops for the shower, though!

For most people, a good pair of hiking shoes will suffice, no need for boots.

Gear & Otherwise

A head torch is not strictly required as there are lamps but if you pop out to use the loo and the outside lamp has gone out, you’ll be glad you brought one. Towels are provided although if you have a quick-drying pack towel, bring it. If you’re sensitive to scratchy fabrics, bring a sarong or sleep sack to put between you and the thick blankets of your bed.

Bring a walking stick and don’t be afraid to use it. There are lightweight foldable/collapsible ones that don’t take up much space in your luggage. Your knees will thank you on the downhills and steps.

Water is provided in single-use bottles at lunch and in the camp. Consider filling a reusable bottle at your hotel before you go to cut down on the waste that needs to be brought down the mountain.

Bring small bills for tipping the camp and lunch staff and for making donations at Tiger’s Nest.

Insider Tips

If you take no other advice, take this: adjust to the altitude before you start this trek! Spend a few days in Nepal including day hikes before arriving in Bhutan. Or put this trek toward the end of your time in Bhutan. Allowing your body to acclimate will make this a far more enjoyable experience. Even if your body has adjusted, the altitude may still cause headaches, poor sleep, or other discomfort. Sitting at around 3,900 meters above sea level, the air at camp is thin. Drink plenty of water.

Bring snacks. Ask your guide in the days ahead about stopping at a market to buy fruit or pop into one of the shops in Thimphu or Paro for nuts or other bits to nibble on. Hold on to some of these for after your visit to the Tiger’s Nest and before the final descent. If you’ve run out, consider stopping at the café midway down for energy to fuel the way.

Talk with your guide at the start about how often you like to stop for views or rest so that he is aware and can advise where the good spots are. Guides are not mind-readers and everyone they guide has a unique pace and preferences. If you’re doing this trek at the end of your holiday, there’s a better chance your guide will know your pace as you’ll have done some walks and hikes already. Even so, this is more strenuous than most of the day hikes so don’t be shy – talk to your guide.

There is mobile phone coverage at the camp and parts of the trail so bring a power bank for any charging needs. In the evening, you’ll likely turn in early but consider bringing a deck of cards, journal, or book to read.

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If you’d like to include the Bumdra Trek as part of your holiday in Bhutan, please get in touch, Alba and I would love to help you make this memorable hike a part of your Bhutan experience. Give us a ring on 020 7112 0019 or drop us an email.

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