When we committed to add Bhutan to Fleewinter’s offerings, Alba and I knew that an epic familiarisation trip was in order. And we had to time it so we could attend at least one of the country’s traditional festivals. It took careful planning as we had to travel in the off-season (this allows us to stay at and see hotels when they aren’t full and to meet with guides, drivers, and others without taking them away from guests). Fortunately, there are two festivals in the Bumthang area in the same week in June so knowing that we’d have overcast skies and perhaps a bit of rain, we planned our trip to attend both.
A bit of background…
You may already know that Bhutan is a predominantly Buddhist country, that the school of Buddhism practiced is unique, and that there are festivals with colourful costumes and dance that are part of the people’s tradition and faith. Visiting temples and monasteries including the cliff-hugging Tiger’s Nest is likely to be a part of any trip to Bhutan. Often visits are combined with walks, hikes, and treks as the country’s natural beauty is just as memorable as the buildings and inevitable encounters with monks. Yet visiting a monastery on a festival day is more memorable still.
Each festival is a bit different: many use costumes and dance to tell stories of the Guru Rinpoche who brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century, others feature non-masked Black Hat Dances (a sacred cycle of dances, the meaning of which goes beyond this post!), some include a “wang” – a blessing in which threads are tied around one’s neck, others involve reading of texts, one is held to celebrate the arrival of the black-necked cranes. Although I’ve only attended two festivals, I’m confident that attending any of these will be an experience unlike any other.
We’ve put some basics about attending festivals in Bhutan on our website here.
Nimalung Village Festival
In one of the four valleys of Bumthang, the Nimalung monastery has an annual festival to bring happiness and prosperity to the village and indeed, all of Bhutan. On an overcast June day, we arrived at the monastery before any of the ceremonies began as the crowd found seats and children ran freely. Many adults were dressed in their finest including boys with embroidered boots and girls with colourful kiras. Initially, we perched at the edge of the stone courtyard against a ledge, watching the villagers and a handful of tourists filter in and find their places. After a little while, our guide found seats for us in the tent with some of the senior monks, government dignitaries, and other VIPs who would come and go throughout the performances. We welcomed the chairs and as the performances progressed, were thrilled to have the seats we did as it brought us into contact with two people we wouldn’t have encountered elsewhere.
Two atsaras (clowns) who spoke excellent English were frequent visitors to the tent. These two senior monks had the freedom behind their masks to make lewd jokes, correct the dance steps of the performers, shoo dogs off the “stage,” and to chat with anyone they liked about whatever they so desired. Let’s just say that we were more than a little surprised at some of what they had to say! They also educated us on the various snacks and offerings that were passed around the tent and as we saw them teasing and interacting with the Bhutanese (both within the tent and without), it felt as though we were accepted in their midst.
The dances progressed through a ritual that began with purifying the area, moved on to corralling evil spirits into a space represented by a box, and then subduing the spirits. Between the monks’ dances, local women sang and danced traditional steps with hand gestures that are meant to put down the evil spirits. The monks in their costumes danced barefoot and the costumes were simply made. Some were faded, some ill-fitting, at least one mask needed to be retied by an atsara. By lunch time, the performances were finished and the monks adjourned to a buffet that volunteers had assembled.
Everything about the morning had the wonderful feel of a community coming together for an important tradition, not worried about pretense or perfection. The spirit that lies behind Bhutan’s concept of Gross National Happiness shown bright and being there to witness it felt like an honor.
Kurjey Festival in Bumthang
The following day, we attended the annual Kurjey festival in front of one of the nation’s two 8th century temples (the other is in Paro). The temple sits with two others and we’d seen the exterior and one interior a few days earlier. On this day, we were permitted into the monastery where costumes and masks were laid out and the monks would later prepare. Photography inside temples and monasteries is prohibited in Bhutan so you’ll have to trust me that it was a site worth seeing: monks chattering away with each other, incense and butter lamps burning, and a floor covered in bright fabric and strange masks.
Bhutan’s beloved Guru Rinpoche was once invited to the spot of Kurjey Lhakhang to subdue evil spirts plaguing the land and this festival is an important one, held on the date of his birth from a lotus. The dances recount stories of Guru Rinpoche’s arrival and his many good deeds and the procession is sacred. Before it begins, many residents line up to receive blessings and a large embroidered tapestry that hangs during the blessings is slowly lowered and rolled, never touching the ground.
We were once again invited into the tent although we didn’t all stay there, some seeking better views elsewhere. Those who stayed in the tent were served cake and tea and had the chance to survey the crowd and the various comings-and-goings of children, monks, dignitaries, and others.
Unlike the Nimalung monks, these monks all wore embroidered boots, there were no mask or wardrobe malfunctions, and everything had a polish to it. This year, included with the stories of Guru Rinpoche and the women’s traditional folk dance and song, was a performance by Bhutan’s military who had traveled to Bumthang from Thimphu. The dance had been commissioned by the Queen mother and formerly presented only atop Dochula Pass between Punakha and Thimphu. The soldiers wore simple masks and moved with military precision, executing their choreography flawlessly. It was a striking contrast to the fluid movements of the monks in their billowing robes.
Rain caused many attendees to take cover or depart during one of the most important ritual dances and the flurry of people moving about made it nearly impossible to continue observing so we followed their leave and adjourned, the sound of drums and religious trumpets following us through the grounds.
Final Thoughts
Attending both a village festival at a private monastery and one of the national festivals at a landmark site was a highlight of our FAM trip to Bhutan. The contrast between the two was noteworthy and I’d whole-heartedly recommend attending any festival or tsechu in Bhutan and if schedule allows, more than one. For the Bhutanese, attendance is an important part of their religion and their community while for us as outsiders, attendance is a privilege, one that I feel honored to have had.
As much as I’d love to see the Black Necked Cranes in November and to see one of the Black Hat Dances, I’d love to help our wonderful Fleewinter clients attend any of the festivals. It’s an experience unlike any other and one you won’t soon forget.
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If you’d like to attend a festival as part of your holiday in Bhutan, please get in touch, Alba and I would be delighted to help you fall in love with this incredible land. Give us a ring on 020 7112 0019 or drop us an email.
Written by Marbree Sullivan
Top Travel Tip
“At least once in every journey, travel by local transport. Some of the most memorable conversations I’ve had have occurred in the back of jeepneys, trucks, and in the passenger seats of tricycles and tuk-tuks. You’ll gain insight into daily life and see your destination the way locals do.” Marbree – Philippines, Borneo, Malaysia, Laos, Singapore, and Cayman Islands Specialist
