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Are those bird droppings on my plate? Cuisine the Malagasy way…

Beyond the enchanting landscapes and playful lemurs, Madagascar offers another treasure: its vibrant and diverse cuisine. Imagine the aromatic spices of India dancing with the fresh seafood of the Indian Ocean or the delicate touch of French pastry enhancing local fruits—this is just a taste of the culinary magic that awaits. As a tropical island, Madagascar boasts an incredible array of exotic produce and readily available seafood. Its location on historic trade routes has also shaped its culinary identity, with influences from Indian, Southeast Asian, Arab, African, and Chinese cuisines all contributing to a rich tapestry of flavours. And let’s not forget the French influence, a legacy of Madagascar’s colonial past, which adds another layer of sophistication. Ready to trade lemurs for lemongrass? Let’s explore some unforgettable Malagasy dishes, each a must-try on your culinary adventure.

Tatao – The Royal Dishes!

I seriously love really good food, so where would one begin? Probably best to begin with the prestigious dishes of Madagascar, known as Tatao. These are the “royal” dishes, reserved for truly special occasions, celebrations, or to honour important guests. Imagine the skill and artistry required to create a meal fit for royalty—that’s the essence of Tatao. This culinary tradition reflects the deep importance of food in Malagasy culture, where certain dishes are not merely sustenance but powerful symbols of status, tradition, and community. Tatao dishes are a testament to Madagascar’s rich culinary heritage, showcasing the island’s diverse flavours and cultural influences.

While the specific dishes considered Tatao may vary slightly from region to region or even family to family, the underlying principle remains constant: these are exceptional, prestigious preparations that hold a place of honour in Malagasy culinary culture. They often involve unique ingredients and complex cooking techniques and are prepared with the utmost care and attention to detail.

Just a heads-up: If you’re used to or are looking for bolder flavours (like what I am used to), you might find that the food in touristy spots has been adjusted to cater for a broader range of palates, which typically means a less intense flavour profile (a.k.a. “bland”). To really get a sense of what Malagasy cooking is all about, nothing beats a home-cooked meal, served with dollops of love. It’s where the heart and soul of the cuisine truly reside.  If you want to know more or be guided by a Malagasy chef who will get you to cook authentic Malagasy cuisine, drop me an email.

Madagascar is predominantly a meat-eating country, but there are pescatarian, vegetarian and vegan options available – see below for some yummy examples.

Romazava: A Taste of National Pride

Explore the essence of Malagasy cuisine with Romazava, often considered the national dish. This flavourful stew offers a culinary journey through the island’s rich flavours. It typically features tender pieces of zebu (wild cattle) or chicken alongside a vibrant mix of leafy greens like Annamalai (Morelle leaves), brèdes mafia (a type of spinach with a slightly peppery kick), and aangivy (small eggplants). The broth is enriched with ginger, tomatoes, garlic, and onions, creating a robust and aromatic base. Traditionally served hot with fluffy white rice and pili-pili (chilli), Romazava is a savoury delight that embodies the communal spirit of Malagasy dining.

• Cost: 5,000 to 15,000 MGA (£1 to £3.30) depending on ingredients and restaurant.
• Taste: A complex and savoury flavour profile, balancing the richness of the meat with the earthy notes of the greens and the aromatic spices.
• Cultural Significance: Romazava is more than just a meal; it’s a cultural experience. It’s often shared during celebrations and family gatherings, symbolising unity and abundance.

Vorombe Sy Henakisoa: A Royal Feast

A true culinary masterpiece, Vorombe Sy Henakisoa is another prestigious Tatao dish. Traditionally, this royal feast combined the flavours of turkey or goose (vorombe) with pork (henakisoa). While these original ingredients are still sometimes used, chicken has become a more common substitute for poultry in modern versions.

This dish is a celebration of both flavours and textures. The poultry is typically slow-cooked until incredibly tender and succulent. The pork, often cut into generous chunks, adds a rich and savoury counterpoint. The two meats are cooked together in a flavourful broth, infused with aromatic spices like ginger, garlic, and onions. Sometimes, vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, or green beans are added, contributing further depth and complexity.

• Cost: A pricier dish due to the multiple meats and long preparation, Vorombe Sy Henakisoa typically costs between 10,000 and 30,000 MGA (£2.20-£6.40) or more, depending on ingredients and the restaurant. It’s usually reserved for special occasions.
• Taste: A complex and deeply satisfying flavour. Slow cooking melds the meats into a rich, savoury broth. Poultry adds delicate sweetness, pork provides robust earthiness, and ginger and garlic lend warmth. Vegetables, if added, contribute freshness. The overall taste is a harmonious blend of sweet, savoury, and aromatic notes.
• Cultural Significance: As a Tatao dish, Vorombe Sy Henakisoa is served at weddings, holidays, and to honour guests. It symbolises abundance, prosperity, and respect, fostering communal bonds. The preparation time underscores its importance, reflecting Malagasy hospitality and celebration. It’s a symbol of tradition and heritage.

Ravitoto: Earthy Delights from Cassava Leaves

A culinary staple, Ravitoto offers a unique and satisfying taste of the island’s culinary resourcefulness. This beloved dish is made from finely pounded cassava leaves, cooked down to a tender consistency. The preparation varies, offering different flavour profiles depending on the added ingredients, such as meat, coconut milk, or peanuts. The leaves themselves have an earthy and slightly bitter taste, balanced by the richness of the other ingredients.  Ravitoto without meat as an option is vegetarian.

Ravitoto is traditionally served with rice, the ever-present staple of Malagasy cuisine. A side of achard (pickled vegetables) often accompanies the dish, adding a tangy and refreshing contrast.

• Cost: Ravitoto is relatively affordable, typically costing between 3,000 and 10,000 MGA (£0.70 to £2.20).
• Taste: The taste is a delightful interplay of earthy and rich flavours. The cassava leaves offer a distinct, slightly bitter base, balanced by savoury meat, creamy coconut milk, or nutty peanuts. The achard adds a tangy counterpoint.
• Cultural Significance: Ravitoto is a cultural touchstone, a testament to the resourcefulness of Malagasy cuisine. It’s a staple food enjoyed across the island and a must-try for any visitor.

More Malagasy Culinary Adventures:

Trondro lafika legioma: the Malagasy equivalent to fish and chips?

A staple of Malagasy cuisine, trondro lafika legioma (meaning “fish with vegetables”) is a versatile dish. Whether the fish is grilled, fried, or baked, and whether the vegetables are tomatoes, onions, peppers, carrots, or something else entirely, it’s a flavorful meal often enjoyed with rice or grains (Pescatarian).

Akoho Rony: A Comforting Broth

Akoho Rony is a flavourful chicken broth made with the local Akoho Gasy chicken, ginger, and vegetables. A comforting and nourishing dish, it’s often served during family celebrations or when someone is feeling unwell. The ginger adds a warm and spicy note, while the vegetables provide essential nutrients. Think of it as the Malagasy equivalent of chicken soup.

Koba (Mofo Ravina): A Sweet Treat

Koba (Mofo Ravina) is a popular dessert or snack. Made from mashed bananas, peanuts, and sometimes rice flour, the mixture is often wrapped in banana leaves and steamed or boiled. The result is a dense and chewy cake with a creamy texture and sweet, nutty flavour. Often prepared for special occasions, Koba reflects its importance in Malagasy culture (Vegetarian).

Vary Amin’anana: The Daily Delight

Vary Amin’anana, meaning “rice with greens,” is a cornerstone of the Malagasy diet. This simple yet satisfying dish consists of steamed rice (vary) served with a variety of local greens (anana). It’s a versatile meal enjoyed any time of day, often accompanied by chicken, meat, eggs, or small shrimp called chevaquines. Think of it as the Malagasy equivalent of rice and beans—a comforting and nutritious staple (Vegetarian).

Hena omby Ritra: A Zebu Celebration

Hena omby Ritra is slow-cooked zebu beef, often reserved for special occasions. The incredibly long cooking time (up to 48 hours!) results in unbelievably tender and flavourful meat. The meat is simply seasoned, allowing the rich flavour of the zebu to truly shine. This is a dish that speaks of patience and celebration.

Henakisoa Sy Amalona: A Unique Fusion

This unique and prestigious dish combines the richness of pork with the slightly sweet and earthy flavour of eel. A testament to Madagascar’s diverse culinary influences, it might sound unusual, but the combination is surprisingly delicious and considered a delicacy. The pork is slow-cooked until tender, while the eels are often grilled or pan-fried. The contrasting textures and flavours make this a truly memorable culinary experience, often served to honoured guests during special occasions in the Highlands.

Voanjobory (Bambara Pea): A Versatile Legume

Voanjobory (Bambara pea) is a versatile legume prepared in various ways. Often cooked with meat, it adds a creamy texture and nutty flavour. It’s also enjoyed as a snack, often roasted or boiled and seasoned with salt.

Tsaramaso (White Beans): A Hearty Staple

Tsaramaso are creamy white beans cooked with zebu meat or pork. This hearty and flavourful dish is a staple in many Malagasy households. The beans are cooked until soft and creamy, and the meat adds a rich and savoury element.

Vary Amin’ny Vanilla: Subtle and Fragrant

Vary Amin’ny Vanilla or rice with vanilla, is a staple in Madagascar, due to the abundance and exceptional quality of Malagasy vanilla beans. The vanilla imparts a subtle sweetness and a fragrant depth to the rice, making it a perfect accompaniment to the diverse flavours of Malagasy cuisine. Despite being a simple dish, it speaks volumes about the island’s rich agricultural heritage and culinary traditions (Vegetarian).

Lasary: a vibrant Malagasy salad

Lasary combines the fresh tang of tomatoes, onions, and green peppers, brightened with lime juice and a touch of salt. It’s a refreshing and flavorful vegetarian option, showcasing the simple deliciousness of local ingredients (Vegetarian).

Sakay: a fiery Malagasy condiment

Sakay ignites the palate with a vibrant blend of chili peppers, zesty lemon, and pungent garlic. A spoonful of sakay alongside a mound of fluffy rice adds a thrilling kick to any meal (Vegetarian).

Bakely: A Street Food Favourite

Bakely are small, fried rice flour dumplings, a common street food snack. Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, they can be eaten plain or dipped in a sauce. A perfect on-the-go treat (Vegetarian).

Sambaro: A Refreshing Salad

Sambaro is a refreshing salad of shredded vegetables in a tangy vinaigrette. Light and refreshing, it’s perfect for a hot day. The vinaigrette adds a zesty flavour that complements the fresh vegetables (Vegetarian).

Akoho misy Sakamalao: A warm rich dish

Akoho misy Sakamalao, meaning “chicken with ginger,” is a beloved Malagasy dish. This comforting and aromatic staple highlights the island’s culinary preference for fresh ingredients and simple preparations, pairing the warmth of ginger with the richness of the chicken (Gluten-free).

Ranon’ampango: A Refreshing Surprise

Ranon’ampango is a traditional drink made from the burnt rice at the bottom of the cooking pot. It’s a refreshing and economical way to stay hydrated. Don’t let the description fool you—this isn’t just burnt rice water! The toasty flavour adds a subtle depth, making it surprisingly refreshing, especially on a hot day. Some even believe it has digestive benefits. It’s a testament to making the most of every ingredient.

Mofo Gasy: a vegan Malagasy treat

Mofo Gasy is a type of doughnut made with rice flour and coconut milk, often spiced with cardamom. While perhaps less intensely flavoured than some other options, it’s a dependable and satisfying vegan choice (Vegan).

Rhum arrangé: A tantalisingly addictive taste of the islands

This delicious tradition is a fascinating glimpse into local culinary artistry—a craft and personal expression using the flavours of the region. A base rum is infused with a variety of ingredients, often fruits, spices, and other local specialities. The “arranging” (from the French arranger) is the process of combining these ingredients and letting them macerate, a personal touch that makes each blend unique (Alcoholic).

Caca-Pigeon: A Surprisingly Delicious Snack

And finally… Caca-Pigeon (Bird Poop). Yes, it’s a real dish! But don’t worry, it’s not what you think. This popular fried snack is made from a simple flour and egg batter and deep-fried until golden brown. The name may be unappealing, but the taste is surprisingly delicious! It’s a testament to the Malagasy sense of humour and culinary creativity (Vegetarian).

If the thought of fine Malagasy cuisine has you drooling for more than just a mouthful, email Robin at madagascar@fleewinter.com or call us at (UK) 020 7112 0019. We specialise in private, bespoke holidays to ensure you make the most of your time on this magical island.

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