Fleewinter

The Apsara Rive Droite is one of the most unusual and compelling hotels in Luang Prabang; it has some of the biggest rooms, boasts an intimate environment with just 9 rooms and prides itself on having the closest swimming pool to town (because UNESCO have banned hotels in the ancient town from building swimming pools. What’s the catch? Well there isn’t one… but the location of the hotel is probably the best and worst thing about the hotel; depending on what you want. The hotel is on the opposite side of the wide, fast-flowing Nam Khan River, to the rest of the town. But there is a little boat that will take you over the river whenever you want (you must then climb steps up the bank on either side of the river - so not ideal for the less-mobile).

Nestled away from the main town of Luang Prabang, which is easily accessible, the hotel is surrounded by organic gardens and huge palms. The bamboo steps up from shore are a bit of a hike, but the pay-off is a luxurious ambiance, very much like that of a private villa, with the bonus of excellent service.

The Apsara Rive Droite is beautifully decorated; expect everything from glass Buddhas and glowing Vietnamese lanterns, to designer wallpaper from Sussex! The 9 bedrooms are airy, vastly comfortable affairs with French doors leading to terraces overlooking the pool. This long sliver of emerald water is sublime and quite the envy of the neighbours on the peninsula, where Heritage laws prohibit pools.

All 9 rooms are identical - but the Garden View Deluxes are on the ground floor and the River View Deluxes are on the first: upstairs rooms have a lovely view of the surrounding mountains and a more private terrace, but the rooms downstairs have easy access to the pool and a garden view. Two of the upstairs rooms can be easily converted into triple rooms. All rooms are extremely spacious, with shuttered French windows leading to private terraces, and dark wooden floorboards. We love the simple Asian motifs and framed black and white photographs showing rural Lao life in the 1950s adorn the walls.

Each room has an alcove housing a sumptuous kingsize bed, with a fashionable Jim Thompson silk print hanging above it. Elegant lanterns made from Chinese fabric give subtle evening lighting, and a tropical fruit bowl greets you on arrival. Spacious bathrooms have a walk-in rain shower, a bathtub for 2, and a double vanity area, all tiled in slate grey. Signature toiletries and handmade soaps are placed in traditional glazed plates.

The restaurant is a small, open-sided affair with bleached white wicker furniture spilling out onto an outdoor terrace. The bar, inside, has a few stools dotted around and offers a great selection of cocktails and aperitifs such as Pastis or Kir. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner here but remember Luang Prabang has a fantastic selection of restaurants over the river.

Please note this hotel is not suitable for children under the age of 12.